HUNTER-GATHERER

One of the aspects of life in Gotham that I truly love is the notion that when one leaves his abode on a simple errand, few know what adventures await. This afternoon I had decided to try perfecting my chicken biryani recipe and swung by Dual Specialty Store, the 1st avenue Indian grocery emporium, for some supplies. As is the case when I attempt to cook anything close to the food of the Mughal, I consult Dual mainman, Delwar. Delwar has served as my guide through various recipes and has always given me the fast option through prepared pastes or the time honored proper mix of spices. He has also been quick to produce a printed recipe for additional illustration.


As we discussed the ins and outs of today’s chicken biryani, Delwar mentioned that he and his friend Mohammed were heading out for biryani in Jackson Heights. He then suggested that I experience the real article and very cordially invited me to join them. Uhhhh……..sure! I’ll go.
The three of us jump in the car a few minutes later and we are off. Delwar treats me to a 20 minute history lesson of 6th street and Bangladesh. Unbeknownst to me, the mostly Bengali owners of the restaurants 6th st. is known for settled there in the mid-70’s. He went on to discuss the similarities and differences between Indian, Pakistani and Bengali food and culture.
As we exit the BQE and glide into Jackson Heights another world awaits. The streets offer a bevy of south Asian fare and I wonder why I haven’t made the trip sooner as we pass the Roosevelt ave. subway station. Before we even park the car I know that I will be coming back soon. We drop anchor on 74th st., dominated by mostly Indian restaurants, but Delwar has other plans. He explains that 73rd street, the next block over, features Bengali restaurants and one of the best biryani places. The summer night air is thick and the streets are alive with women in saris, young south asian hipsters and a lot of food.

We arrive at Alauddin Sweetmeat, a cafeteria of sorts, with a long steam table full of delights.

Delwar and Mohammed ask me what I like, and I defer to their judgement. We opt for the goat biryani.


My Guides, Mohammed and Dalwar

Slow cooked and sweet, the goat is tender and delicious. Served with a hard boiled egg and sitting on a bed of pulao-like rice, it is a simple yet hearty feast. The medley of cumin, bay leaf, peppercorn, clove, cardamom and ghee (clarified butter) fried onions is magnificent. I opt for some poori bread as I spy a panful being carried out of the kitchen and the grilled chicken tikka looks too good to pass up. I tear through most of the chicken before I realize that I haven’t snapped a picture of it.
We depart for a local bakery to grab some hi-test chai cut with sweetened condensed milk for the trip back. Mohammed offers to return with me to explore one of the kebab houses that had me still salivating even after the feast. Can’t wait.

Thanks guys!

Dual Specialty Store
91 1st. Ave (5th & 6th)
NYC 10003
212.979.6045

Alauddin Sweetmeat
37-14 73rd ST.
Jackson Heights, NY 11372
718.651.5000